Baby Yoda (Free Pattern)
Updated: Sep 12
© Copyright Notice: You have permission to sell finished products made from this pattern giving the credits to HaruLeven, but re-writing, re-selling, or copying any part of the pattern itself is prohibited. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation.
* I’m not a native English speaker, so if you notice any language mistakes in this pattern I'll appreciate your advice. Also, if you don’t understand some instructions or if you find any mistakes in the pattern execution, I’ll be grateful if you inform me by e-mail too. (email@example.com)
Thank you, and I hope you enjoy it! ;)
3mm crochet hook and adequate yarn for this hook size in the colour light green (try to aim for a ton like Pantone's Lichen)
5mm crochet hook and adequate yarn for this hook size in the colour beige (I recommend a plush or fluffy yarn)
2cm safety eyes
Doll needle (optional - would make some parts easier to work)
For this project, I used 100% cotton yarn Amigurumi (Círculo Produtos, TEX 492, Ne 6/5 ply, 16WPI) with a 3mm crochet hook and 85% polyamide and 15% acrylic plush yarn Amigulove Pelúcia (Cisne, TEX 833, 8WPI).
Approximately 14cm. The actual size of the finished item may change depending on the materials used. If you use different sizes of hook and yarn make sure you adapt the size of the eyes too.
Abbreviations (based on US terms):
MR - magic ring
ST - stitch
CH - chain
SL ST - slip stitch
SC - single crochet
INC - increase (2sc in the same st)
DEC - decrease (sc 2 together)
DC - double crochet
DC INC - double crochet increase (2dc in the same st)
DC DEC - double crochet decrease (dc 2 together)
BLO - back loops only (do the stitches using only the back loops of your work)
PICOT - picot stitch (ch3, insert the hook in the back loop of the first chain and do a sl st)
(STITCH)xNUMBER - number of times you have to repeat that stitch
[ ] - total number of stitches
* If you don’t know how to do one of the crochet stitches used in this pattern you can search on YouTube for “name of the stitch + tutorials” and you’ll find some very easy and detailed video tutorials for beginners.
* The rows that don’t mention to do a chain between them are worked in continuous rounds, so it’ll be easier if you use a stitch marker to mark every last stitch from the row.
Head: (3mm crochet hook / light green yarn)
R1: 5sc in the MR 
R2: (inc)x5 
R3: (sc, inc)x5 
R4: (2sc, inc)x5 
R5: (3sc, inc)x5 
R6: (4sc, inc)x5 
R7: (5sc, inc)x5 
R8: (6sc, inc)x5 
R9: (7sc, inc)x5 
R10: (8sc, inc)x5 
R11: (9sc, inc)x4, 9sc, 3inc 
R12: (6sc, inc)x8 
R13-R22 (10 rows): 1sc in each st around 
Insert the safety eyes between R20-R21, approximately 18st apart.
Use a piece of the same colour yarn to embroider the eyebrows.
R23: (6sc, dec)x8 
R24: (5sc, dec)x8 
R25: (4sc, dec)x8 
R26: (3sc, dec)x8 
Stuff the head.
R27: (2sc, dec)x8 
R28: 1sc in each st around 
Body: (3mm crochet hook / light green yarn)
R29: (2sc, inc)x8 
R30: (3sc, inc)x8 
R31-R32: 1sc in each st around 
Now we have to shape the mouth. Cut 3 strings of approximately 20cm of the same yarn used to make the body. With a tapestry needle or a doll needle, insert the yarn through a stitch somewhere in the middle of the head, a little bit below the eyes rows. Cross the head with the needle and take it out on the top. We should have 2 tails of the yarn, one on top of the head and one below. Using the tail from below, insert it again into the head through a stitch right next to it. Cross the head again with the needle, taking it out in a stitch right next to the tail of yarn we left before. Pull both tails of yarn tightly and make a double knot.
Notice that there's a little depression now in the place we'll be shaping the mouth. Now we have to repeat this process 2 more times. Count 3 stitches to each side and 1 stitch down to do the same as before on those locations. Those 3 little depressions made from our strings of yarn will shape Yoda's mouth.
You'll notice little marks on top of the head where we made the knots. Try to make it tight enough to shape the mouth, but not so much to turn those marks too visible. You can squeeze the stuffing in the head to mould it a little more, trying to make the marks less visible.
R33: (4sc, inc)x8 
R34-R42 (9 rows): 1sc in each st around 
R43: (5sc, inc)x8 
R44-R46 (3 rows): 1sc in each st around 
R47: 1sc in each st around BLO 
R48: (5sc, dec)x8 
R49: (4sc, dec)x8 
R50: (3sc, dec)x8 
Stuff the body.
R51: (2sc, dec)x8 
R52: (sc, dec)x8 
R53: (dec)x8 
FO and close the hole.
Feet: make 2 (3mm crochet hook / light green yarn)
Insert the hook through one of the front loops left from R47 and do (1sc, 1 picot)x3. FO and hide the tail.
Ears: make 2 (3mm crochet hook / light green yarn)
R1: 5sc in the MR 
R2: (inc)x5 
R3: 1sc in each st around 
R4: (sc, inc)x5 
R5-R6: 1sc in each st around 
R7: (2sc, inc)x5 
R8-R10 (3 rows): 1sc in each st around 
R11: (3sc, inc)x5 
R12: (4sc, inc)x5 
R13: 3inc, 27sc 
R14: 1sc in each st around 
R15: (sc, inc)x3, 27sc 
R16: 1sc in each st around 
R17: (2sc, inc)x3, 27sc 
R18: 1sc in each st around 
R19: (3sc, inc)x3, 27sc 
R20-R22: 1sc in each st around 
Sl st and FO leaving a long tail to sew the ears to the head.
I recommend placing the ears on the head with some pin needles before sewing it. Sew the ears using a tapestry needle and make sure to pass through every single stitch with it to a better finishing. Remove the pin needles as you progress with the sewing. Then, hide the tails of yarn inside the head. Apply some blush makeup on the inner side of the ears.
Arms: make 2 (3mm crochet hook / light green yarn)
R1: 8sc in the MR 
R2: (inc)x8 
R3: 1sc in each st around BLO 
R4-R6 (3 rows): 1sc in each st around 
R7: (2sc, dec)x4 
Stuff about 80% of the arms, leaving a little space to flatten a little bit the arm while sewing.
R8: (sc, dec)x4 
Sl st and FO leaving a tail to sew arms to the body.
Hands: make 2 (3mm crochet hook / light green yarn)
Insert the hook through one of the front loops left from R3 and do (1sc, 1 picot)x3. FO and hide the tail.
Robe (5mm crochet hook / beige plush or fluffy yarn)
This part has no fixed number of stitches or rows. It can vary a lot depending on the kind of yarn you're using, how much stuffing you inserted, or even if your stitches are tighter or looser. So, I'm gonna explain the process step-by-step and you can adapt it according to your own Baby Yoda's size.
I recommend assembling the arms before starting to make the robe. The best way to make sure Baby Yoda's robe will be a perfect fit is to try it on as you progress with each row. If you find it is turning out too small you can just do some rows without decreasing in the beginning. And if you find it is too large, just add more decreases.
Do enough chains to wrap the base of your Yoda's body. Then, ch2 and starting from the third chain from hook do 1dc in each st of the foundation chain.
(ch2 and turn. 1dc dec, 1dc in the next stitches of the row except the last 2, 1dc dec)x repeat until your rows reach the height of your Baby Yoda's arms.
In the row with the arms, we'll have to do the same as the previous rows, but when reaching the exact place where the arms are placed, we'll do ch3 and skip 3st, then continue the rest of the row normally.
When you reach the height of your Baby Yoda's neck, we'll be doing a row of sc. (ch1 and turn. dec, 1sc in the next stitches, 3sc in the holes of the arms, dec in the last 2st).
In the next row do a ch2 and turn. Then, do (dc inc, dc)x until the end of the row.
In the next row do a ch1 and turn. Then, do 1sc in each st of the row.
Now we just have to sew the front part of the robe to close it.
Thank you for choosing my pattern!
I hope you like it and let me see your own doll when it’s finished! Tag me on Instagram at @haruleven.aspie and I’ll be very happy to admire your work!
Printable PDF version with detailed pictures available on Ravelry. Download here!